Srisailam, Madurai and Rameshwaram (Part 1 of the Travel)

Srisailam 


Having started from Hyderabad, the nearest location is Srisailam, at a distance of 220 kms, takes about 5 hours by bus. A good part of the journey is through the dense Nallamalla forests and there are very frequent sightings of elephants and other wild animals crossing the roads. Having booked a cottage already, I thought I wouldnt have to go through the hassle of searching, bargaining and haggling for a room. Guess what! The receptionist tells me that
a. There is no electricity and there will be no electricity for 3 more hours.
b. It is better I take another room in a private hotel because there is no water supply in the cottages.

c. When I persisted that I will take what I already paid for, I should search for the cottage in the night (without street lights) which is about a km away from the reception!

So much for advance booking on the internet (The cottages are run and maintained by the temple trust)

I somehow caught hold of a guard, requested him to fill water in the bathrooms and was finally at peace an hour later (Determined not to spend extravagantly on double hotel rooms!! String shoe budget, you see).

After a full 'Andhra' meal and a good night's rest, I was ready to visit the temple early next morning. The Suprabhata Seva (where the diety is awakened with Vedic hymns and sounds of the Drums), performed by a set of pandits is a soul filling sight. The very friendly elderly man standing next to me explained all the activities that were taking place in the temple, showed me around the temple and left. He apparently comes one day every year to feed poor people in the temple town.

It is believed that Lord Shiva's Bull performed penance here and the  deities appeared in the form of Mallikharjuna and Bhramaramba. A massive fort, with six meter high walls encloses the temple. A cluster of minor shrines within the temple compound include the Sahasra Linga (believed to be installed by Lord Rama), Panchapandava temples (by the Pandavas). 

The main lane leading to the entrance of the temple is full of religious memorabilia and souvenirs if you are interested. I got lost for a good 2 hours before I pulled myself out to visit the Patala Ganga (River Krishna) and left back to Hyderabad.

You may find this useful:

Even the locals recommend the Suprabhata Seva which takes place at 5:00 AM every morning. Limited Tickets (10) are given starting 4:15 AM on the same day. It is a very wonderful sight where you can see everything from close proximity to the Sanctum Sanctorum (which is a rarity in temples these days).

This temple allows for people from all castes, creeds and sects to come and touch the presiding diety.

The Akkama Caves are a 5 hour trip from the town in a boat. Do make time for that too. (I couldnt, due to paucity of time)

Madurai

Madurai does not have a jyotirlinga. While my next stop was supposed to be Rameswaram, the trains dint connect well and so I thought of getting down at Madurai, the town of the ancient temple of Meenakshi Amman  and the modern temple of Aravind Eye Care!

Rings to a couple of places told me I had a place available! Madurai it is!

The Southern Gopuram, Meenakshi Temple, Madurai

I've been to Madurai earlier. But the sheer magnificence of the town and the temple manages to blow me away every single time.The precision of sculptures, the range of emotions displayed, the myriad colors, the stories they depict and the dancing stances are all supremely inspiring. 

One of the sculptured pillars in the Thousand Pillared Temple

The temple complex has been built over 2 millenia and evokes awe and admiration from the general masses to the seasoned historian.

Temple Entrance

And now, for the lunch! I ve heard so much about Amma Mess in Madurai and was about to try it out! All with glee, I went in and ordered Chicken Biryani and Chicken Omellette, the only sane looking items there. (Rabbit Biryani and Mutton Balls were not for me!) Very tasty and worth the adulation! You should also try the sweet pan just outside the mess. I swear there were the typical Chennai spices that went into the sweet paan!

After a nice afternoon's rest on a heavy belly, I wanted to explore the city. (This is the interiors of Tamil Nadu, mind you) I got onto a bus, forgot the destination's name and managed to confuse the driver. After a half hour, I got down, wandered around. That is the best part of travelling alone. The city reveals itself to you, bit by bit, as and when you are ready for it. Explored the main part of the town for half an hour and again got into the temple in hope of some nice photographs.

What I liked:

1. Getting lost inside the temple premises. Gazing at the roof paintings or the stone scultpures is in itself a very interesting activity.
2. Amma Mess and Ananda Bhavan for food. Reasonable and very tasty.
3. The very kind and helpful receptionist at the hotel (Hotel TamilNadu)

Rameshwaram

Walking on the beach, staring at the setting Sun, Lost in thought, sitting in front of the longest temple corridor in the world, Mind blowing fliter coffee.These are some of the best times Ive had at Rameswaram.

The World's Longest Pillared Corridor, Rameshwaram

After saying bye to the wonderful helpful receptionist who patiently gave me all the directions, I was on my way to Rameswaram. 

A sleepy little temple town and a fisherman's village, it is about 4 hours away from Madurai by bus. It is on the final stretch of this journey that we get to see the famous Adam's Bridge or Ram Sethu. The powerful stench of fish was all pervading. Checking in at the hotel at 2:00 PM when everything including the temple were closed, having nothing better to do, I was walking along the beach, when I found this spot, which to me signified, in one scene, the shore temple of Rameswaram. Just sitting there was marvellous.

The Significance of the Shore temple couldn't have been better!

It was time to go to the temple. The temple corridor looked never ending. A wide pathway, with immaculately done roof paintings of Gods and Goddesses, the corridor surrounds the main shrine. A 4000 feet long corridor with 4000 pillars, sheer brilliance. Legend has it that Lord Rama built a Linga of sand and asked for its blessings before he went on the infamous war with Ravana.

After the temple, I wanted to walk around and explore a little more of the town. So I caught hold of a sign board which was pointing to the temple of Rmar Padam(Literally, Rama's feet). What struck me was how different is the main street from the rest of the city. It was like the difference between  bride on her marriage day and when she gets out of the bed on a normal day.

Travelling alone, I find, has many advantages. It allows you to be with yourself. Go wherever you want to go. Do whatever you want to do. See whatever you want to see. Except that you get a WTF stare from the hotel receptionist when you are forced to tell her that You are the only one staying, and no, No one will be coming to visit you!